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Where the sachertorte is rich and bitter, and the white Alps scratch the sky itself, Austria – home to mirror-seeming lakes and the outrageously fun winter krampus festival – is, despite its genteel appearance, a really very surprising country

The country’s most memorable author, Thomas Bernhardt, was often quite glum about modern life – but he did opine on the preference for living a ‘real’ life. Well, a trip to Austria will certainly give you the tools to experience the highest peaks, the richest culture, and the most comforting of foods. And that’ll take you some way toward the real.

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You might have heard – over the dinner party plates or at a private view – how vivid Vienna has displaced many other European cities as being more progressive, more cultured, and more fun. And they’re not wrong.

A private walking tour of this elegant and radical city will give you a chance to drink in traditional Viennese coffee at the Cafe Central, wander the grand Hofburg Palace, and learn about the impressive

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